11.08.2023
A select group of climbers ensured their participation in the 2024 Paris Olympics. Among them, Italy's Matteo Zurloni and Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi didn't just secure their Olympic berths; they also took home the world titles in their respective categories.
Men’s Speed Climbing
Matteo Zurloni, competing in his first senior season, not only made a mark by setting a new European record in the quarter-final but also clinched his Olympic ticket and world title in dramatic fashion. While going up against China’s Long Jinbao, Zurloni’s win was sealed when Long made a false start. Elated, Zurloni expressed his disbelief, “This is my first World Cup year… I still can’t believe it, it will take a long time to.”
On the other hand, despite the final mishap, Long Jinbao’s silver medal ensured his ticket to Paris. Grateful for the support received during the pandemic, he remarked, “I’m so excited now and will train hard to get a good result in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.”
Women’s Speed Climbing
In the women’s category, the competition was equally fierce. Indonesia’s Made Rita Kusuma Dewi won her maiden world title in a nail-biting final against USA’s Emma Hunt. Not only did Hunt set a new PanAmerican record with 6.67, but she also secured her spot for Paris 2024.
Expressing her gratitude, Dewi said, “This is my first gold medal in a World Championships and I’m happy because I’ve got a ticket to the Paris 2024 Olympics… thank you to my coach, my family, my friends and all the people of Indonesia.”
Hunt’s journey was especially memorable. A surprise twist during the semi-final race against world record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland saw Hunt advancing to the final and cementing her Olympic position. Reflecting on her success, Hunt admitted, “It feels like I can now take a breath and finally breathe. I was trying not to expect anything.”
Aleksandra Miroslaw showcased her determination by bouncing back from the semi-final disappointment and grabbing the bronze against teammate Aleksandra Kalucka.
Full women’s results can be found here, and full men’s results here.
Upcoming Boulder & Lead Finals
The excitement doesn’t stop here. Today, 11.08, marks the beginning of the final two days of the World Championships, commencing with the Women’s Boulder & Lead Finals. The Men’s Boulder & Lead Finals will then follow on 12.08. Both nights offer not only a glimpse into top-level climbing competition but also a ticket to the Olympic Games in Paris 2024 for the three top-ranked athletes.
In the end, it was clear: The road to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games has begun, and the climbers are ready to showcase their prowess on the grand stage.
Photos: David Schweizer