From climbing child to top athlete – unlimited passion

Sascha Lehmann

Sports climber, physics and mathematics student and currently a sports soldier in the military service. Ever since Sascha Lehmann hung on his first rope at the age of three, sport climbing has never left him. Today he is one of the top climbing athletes. His dream sports goal: a podium place at the World Championship in Berne and thus a guaranteed ticket to the Olympic Games in Paris in 2024. Sascha Lehmann, outgoing and cheerful, talks to his sponsor Cornèrcard about his climbing ambitions.

Sascha, how did you get into climbing?

It came naturally. My parents were artistic gymnasts, but they also did some climbing. During our holidays, we would occasionally climb a rock face or an indoor wall. Everything was very relaxed. At some point, my parents asked me if I fancied taking part in a climbing competition. That went really well and I achieved the first victory in my sports career.

And this passion hasn’t left you since?

This victory certainly contributed to my decision to take up climbing. But I was even more excited by the playful side. When I was a child, this aspect fascinated me enormously.

But what makes climbing so special?

As I said, the playfulness and the variety. It’s amazing how climbing has developed in the last few years: how routes are built, how the grip material has changed. Even today, there are always new moves, that were unimaginable 10 or 15 years ago.

There is also the meditative component. When I’m climbing, I’m fully immersed, I forget everything else around me and I’m in this flow state, just living this one intense moment.

What is the difference between rock and indoor climbing?

The equipment is completely different. Rock climbing is usually more static and slower in its movements. The holds are usually a lot smaller and the footwork is more important. You have to trust small steps. Rock climbing also requires more endurance, as the routes are much longer. Climbing indoors, on the other hand, is more coordinative and physically more demanding because every muscle in the body is being used and grip strength plays a smaller role.

“The playfulness and the variety – that’s what fascinates

me about climbing.”

And what does a lead climbing competition look like?

A competition consists of three rounds, the qualification, the semi-final and the final. We have one attempt per route. What counts is how high we get in the route, i.e., the highest grip achieved. The time limit is 6 minutes, after that it’s over. That’s usually more than enough time.

New climbing gyms are being built all over Switzerland. Where is your favourite climbing wall?

I’m at home at O’BLOC in Ostermundigen. I have a lot of support there. The training sessions are organised for me and sometimes new routes are set up. But I’m also regularly on the road in Switzerland and abroad because we need new routes for the preparation of competitions. Unlike bouldering, where the routes are easy to adapt, lead climbing requires a lot more effort and, for example, a lifting platform.

What about rock faces?

The place to be for difficult climbing routes in Switzerland is without doubt Gimmelwald, in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. The overhanging wall is impressive and the whole scenery around simply spectacular. It’s a place where I can completely switch off.

When you’re not training for a competition, are you tempted by other forms of climbing?

Of course, bouldering is the second discipline I devote a lot of time to, because the combination of lead climbing and bouldering counts for the Olympics. On the other hand, I’m not an experienced mountaineer, but whenever possible, I like to do it on the side. I’ve also tried ice climbing, but it’s a bit too cold for me.

Intense moments were certainly also replaced by difficulties?

As a top athlete, you constantly seek the limit. The body can’t always bear that. That’s why you simply have to accept injuries in elite sport. But it’s still hard. I’m thinking of my shoulder injury in a European Championship semi-final, which prevented me from reaching the final. And just six months later I tore my cruciate ligament, which required another six months of rehabilitation.

But then do the beautiful moments compensate these setbacks?

Of course. My first World Cup victory was a particularly special moment. It was also a bit unexpected. It was at my home World Cup in Villars 2019. My family was there, the home crowd cheered me on. A very impressive and special experience.

And how are you preparing for the home World Cup?

Last winter I focused on strength and physique to have a good base. In spring I went bouldering a lot. Then I switched to lead climbing so that I could master longer routes too. Shortly before the World Championship, we also simulate the course of the individual days. When do I eat, when do I need a break, when do I warm up? This method enables me to internalise the schedule, which is important from a mental point of view. Especially for a home World Cup, where the pressure is much greater. As an athlete, I shall probably experience this only once.

Let’s move on to the 2024 Olympic Games. What are your ambitions?

My declared goal is to participate. The requirements and the level increase from year to year. Many young climbers, who started training professionally even earlier than we did, are now moving up.

Now a completely different question. How do you train the perfect body tension?

Mainly by simulating competitions. For example, one time I focus on placing the feet perfectly. Another time I concentrate on route study. The closer the competition gets, the better the different components have to fit together.

This also needs a lot of finger strength?

Of course it does. I practice finger strength on the wall or on thematic boulder training walls where there are various small bars and holds. Or with smart boards that are connected to an app and, thanks to sensors, provide feedback on (finger) maximum strength, strength endurance and grip speed.

Finally: Dreams you would like to realize?

Oh, it doesn’t take much to be happy. I’d like to enjoy sport, games and challenges for a long time to come. Playing against myself, the route, the wall. And of course I want to stay healthy and practise my sport as much as I can. Because the day will come when I’ll no longer compete, which doesn’t mean that I’ll give up climbing.

Thank you very much for the interview, Sascha.

Photo: David Schweizer